Black Corporation: Joseon

Hyang’s “Hair-Cutting Edict” ultimately ended up being canceled.

As a result, Hyang had to redesign the military hat.

“Because the sangtu exists, the hat needs to be tall… But the Napoleonic era military hat is too excessive, and the Special Skills Corps hat looks a bit outdated… The Korean Empire military hat feels too Japanese…”

Of course, if we were to be more precise, both Japan and the Korean Empire had modeled their hats after European military hats.

They were modifications of the kepi, which was itself a simplified design with a lowered height of the famous Shako hat from the Napoleonic Wars era.

However, for Hyang from the 21st century, what he was familiar with was the “damn Japanese military hat,” which caused him to feel aversion.

After pondering various options and searching his memories, Hyang was able to choose a design he liked.

It was the hat worn by Australian soldiers during ceremonies.

It was similar in shape to the ‘Anzac army slouch hat’, which resembled a cowboy hat. Or, from another perspective, it was a more modernized version of the hat worn by the Three Musketeers.

Hyang, who had acquired the technology to make felt cloth through the Jurchen people who had submitted to Joseon, used this to create military hats.

“This is pretty good, isn’t it?”

The hat made of dark green felt cloth – red for cavalry – was well-received by the soldiers. Especially popular was the right brim folded up and attached to the body, with a pheasant tail feather inserted.

After finalizing the attire for the land defense forces in this way, Hyang had to ponder over the hat for the navy.

“That Popeye hat I know is impossible because of the sangtu… Then…”

Hyang once again diligently searched his memories of military enthusiast knowledge.

“This time it’s Russia!”

What Hyang chose was the sailor cap used by the Russian Navy during the Imperial Russian era – similar to what Donald Duck wore.

Of course, this sailor cap was for enlisted sailors, and naval officers were issued a brimmed hat similar to those worn by captains of civilian ships including yachts in the 21st century.

“The crown part of the naval officer’s hat is too low… Damn sangtu! There are too few options!”

Hyang didn’t stop complaining, but when the actual recipients received the newly designed uniforms, boots, and hats, they were very satisfied.

This positive reception was especially prevalent in the navy, as the complete separation of land defense forces and navy through military system reform necessitated differentiation.

And while Hyang grumbled that it lacked style, the soldiers who received the hats had a very positive reaction.

“The response is very good!”

“Is that so? That’s a relief.”

Hyang let out a sigh of relief upon receiving the report that the soldiers’ reaction was very positive.

***

As new styles of military uniforms, boots, and hats were distributed through Hyang’s work, civilian attire also began to change gradually.

As mentioned before, the loose-fitting hanbok began to reveal more of the body’s lines, and shoes with high heels started to become fashionable.

And as the final point of this male fashion, hats began to change.

Replacing the black-dyed bamboo hats that had been mainstream until recently, light and sleek black hats made of horsehair began to become fashionable nearly 100 years earlier. While nobles favored hats made of horsehair, ordinary commoners began to make and wear various shapes of hats using felt cloth.

As Western visitors to Joseon during the 19th century imperialist era described it as “the country of hats,” the people of Joseon had a knack for hats. These people of Joseon wouldn’t miss the opportunity, and before long, hats of all shapes overflowed throughout Joseon.

***

It wasn’t just men’s attire that was changing.

Women’s clothing also began to change little by little.

Starting with the Queen, the shape of the wonsam (a female ceremonial topcoat in hanbok) worn by the women of the inner court began to change gradually.

Like men’s hanbok, the wonsam, which boasted a generous fit, began to cling to the body little by little. In particular, strings were attached to the open sides, starting to reveal the waistline.

It wasn’t just the wonsam that changed. The skirt and jeogori worn underneath also began to change gradually.

Like the wonsam, the jeogori, which was made in a free size and boasted tremendous looseness and length, began to shrink.

The bottom of the jeogori, which used to come down almost to the hip line, rose to the waist line, and the sleeves, which not only covered the back of the hand but also had nearly a span left over after covering the entire hand, were reduced to a level that just barely covered the back of the hand while also becoming narrower.

The skirt was the same. The width and length were greatly reduced. Not only did it shrink, but horizontal pleats were added to the front, causing the front hem to lift slightly.

Between the lifted front hems, the mujigi skirt – named so because the colors of the layered skirt hems were all different, resembling a rainbow – began to be worn peeking out slightly.

If men had hats, women had (a hat) and neoul (a veil used by ladies while going out in the Joseon Dynasty).

Of course, there was a separate true ultimate item.

As the economy improved, the neoul of wealthy nobles families began to become more and more luxurious.

At first, silk or mesh was placed over the jeonmo, but soon silk or mesh was attached to the edge of the jeonmo. The jeonmo thus revealed was painted with elaborate flower patterns.

Changes also occurred in the silk and mesh attached to the edge.

Those of high status attached black silk or mesh, while those of lower status attached blue silk or mesh, but the colors of this silk and mesh began to diversify little by little.

When a woman fully equipped following this changing fashion went out on the street, she drew the attention of all the surrounding men.

A tall woman wearing shoes with high heels like men’s shoes, such as suhye (flower shoes) or danghye, walks in clothes that slightly reveal his figure. The sight of a woman with the mujigi (undergarment skirt) skirt peeking out between the slightly lifted front hem and the suhye or danghye glimpsing with each step was very attractive.

Of course, it cost a considerable amount to be fully equipped like this. Therefore, petitions were submitted saying that women’s extravagance was severe and should be regulated, but King Sejong did not accept them.

-It is a woman’s nature to pursue beauty. It is not appropriate to force this. We should only teach and learn the way of frugality.

Although he gave such an answer to the petition, King Sejong glared at Hyang and asked:

“Was it you?”

“Absolutely not!”

Hyang strongly denied King Sejong’s question. However, disbelief filled the eyes of King Sejong and the ministers.

Seeing their expressions, Hyang inwardly cried out:

‘This damn world where trust has disappeared! Women’s clothing is not my area of fandom! I’m being wronged!’

The one thing Hyang had challenged related to women’s clothing culture, while protesting his innocence, was just one thing.

It was the gache (wig).

***

After the babies born after an excruciatingly long labor had passed their hundredth day and things had become somewhat peaceful, Hyang returned from Area 51 and entered Eastern Palace. Seeing the Royal Clinic doctors and female physicians paying their respects to him, his face became serious.

“What’s the matter? Has something happened to the children?”

“Ah, no. The Crown Princess and the mothers said their necks were hurting, so we gave them some acupuncture.”

“Their necks hurt? I see. Well, are they better now?”

“Yes.”

“Good work.”

After sending away the doctors and female physicians, Hyang headed to where the Crown Princess, Yangwon, and Yangje were.

Although it was slightly against protocol, the Crown Princess, Yangwon, and Yangje were practicing co-parenting.

It was thanks to the three of them giving birth on the same day, at the same hour.

Although most of the childcare was handled by the court ladies and maids, the three women still gathered in one place to look after the babies and strengthen their friendship.

Watching this scene, Hyang had muttered softly:

“With Jinpyeong and Anpyeong also there, Eastern Palace will soon become noisy.”

Jinpyeong and Anpyeong had also recently given birth to sons one after another. As Hyang had called them the “Eastern Palace Mafia,” the Crown Princess, Yangwon, Yangje, and the wives of Jinpyeong and Anpyeong got along well. Therefore, it was certain that once the babies safely passed their first birthday and were able to go outside, they would flock to the Eastern Palace.

***

“I heard you received acupuncture. Are you alright now?”

To Hyang’s question, the Crown Princess, Yangwon, and Yangje bowed their heads and answered.

“We are fine now.”

“That’s good. But why did your necks suddenly hurt?”

To Hyang’s question, the Crown Princess answered as a representative.

“We recently got new gache, and they seem to have been a bit heavy.”

“The gache was heavy? Surely not Yangwon and Yangje too?”

To Hyang’s question, Yangwon and Yangje answered in small voices.

“Yes, that’s right.”

Hearing the women’s answers, Hyang muttered without realizing:

“Why spend money on something that’s not even good for your neck…”

Instantly, the expressions of all the women in the room changed. Seeing those expressions, Hyang inwardly cried out:

‘I, I! I’ve seen that expression before! Really, I have!’

***

When Hyang was living in the 21st century, his mother once spent a large sum of money to acquire a new luxury brand bag. While his mother was showing off the new bag, Hyang’s father made a comment:

“It doesn’t even look that expensive, why bother…”

In that instant, Hyang’s mother’s face turned fierce. And for two weeks, Hyang’s mother went on strike, and Hyang’s father and Hyang had to prepare their own meals and do their own laundry.

And now, the expressions of the women sitting in the room in Eastern Palace were the same as his mother’s expression at that time.

****

Thanks to Hyang immediately apologizing after detecting the danger signal, the situation ended there.

However, Hyang couldn’t just let it go.

“If what I’ve heard is correct, they say that gache has many problems, so it seems we need to do something about it.”

Rumors about gache were so prevalent that they even appeared on TV. The most famous among them was that a young bride, unable to bear the weight of the gache, broke his neck and died.

The reason this was believed to be more than just a joke was that the gache worn by Queen Soheon and the women of the palace now had a height approaching one ja (about 30cm). And it wasn’t just rising upwards, but encompassing the entire head, with various decorations added on top.

Considering that weight, it was entirely possible for someone’s neck to break and die.

Eventually, Hyang went to see King Sejong.

“You want to ban gache? It’s surprising to hear you suggest banning something.”

At King Sejong’s words, Hyang inwardly muttered:

‘There are many! I said we should ban discrimination against the Northwest, I said we should ban discrimination against illegitimate children, I said we should ban discrimination based on the four occupations, et cetera, et cetera…’

“Anyway, what’s the reason for suddenly bringing up the idea of banning gache?”

Hyang, who had been grumbling inwardly, stopped complaining and immediately answered King Sejong’s question.

“Recently, the Crown Princess, Yangwon, and Yangje received acupuncture due to gache.”

“I heard about that too. When I looked into it, many women in the inner court receive acupuncture for similar reasons.”

“That’s exactly why. It’s human nature, especially for women, to pursue beauty, but it shouldn’t harm their health. And while moderate luxury can help in life, excessive luxury ruins life. Gache is excessive luxury, so it should be banned.”

“Hmm…”

At Hyang’s words, King Sejong, stroking his beard thoughtfully, turned to the ministers.

“I’ve heard that gache is expensive, but how expensive is it?”

To King Sejong’s question, Kim Jeom immediately answered.

“Even the cheapest one costs enough to buy 7-8 slaves.”

“Indeed, it has gone too far. Then should we ban it?”

At King Sejong’s words, all the ministers’ faces became troubled.

“Simply thinking about it, banning it would be appropriate, but…”

“But…”

The ministers and King Sejong all trailed off. As Hyang was about to open his mouth at this sight, Lee Jik looked at Hyang and said:

“There’s a saying that ‘domestic harmony brings success in all things.'”

In that moment, Hyang’s mouth firmly closed.

‘Whether it’s the 21st century or now!’

In the end, the attempt to ban gache ended in failure.

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